With some cameras, like the digital Fuji F30* above, there is a special mode which allows photos to be taken continuously if the shutter button is held down. The camera is used in 'shutter priority' mode and set to 1/1000th second and ISO 100-400 for use on sunny days. The above camera will produce 340 best quality images on a 1GB card in about 10 minutes. Ideally, the camera should have a lens with a maximum aperture of f2.8.

( * Fujifilm have now replaced the F30/31fd with the F50fd which (from the link) appears not to have a full continuous shooting mode)

Cameras that do not have a 'shutter priority' mode can be set to the 'sports' or other high speed shutter option instead e.g. Pentax Optio E35

 As an alternative to using a clamp, a cable-tie (or elastic band) can be used to hold down the shutter button. The smaller loop is slid forwards along the larger one (see above) to hold the shutter button down. The small loop can also be placed over the button by sliding the large loop along the camera. Variations in the cable-tie configuration are appropriate for different cameras. If access to any buttons is restricted a plastic toothpick can be useful.

Cable-tie variations

This is a simple alternative to a wireless control and can also be used in conjunction with a 10 second delay. Our more versatile radio-triggered SLRs can be used if needed (e.g. for wide-angle shots). Another non-wireless approach is auto-KAP

Sled kites (NB) cost from about £40 (suitable for compact cameras) and £80 (for SLRs), including the line. The rig can be a very cheap DIY job as in the above illustration or can be bought from the KAPshop.

The primary requirement for archaeological work is that the camera can be pointed vertically downwards. A low distortion lens is desirable, although software corrections can be applied to digital images. The free program GIMP has an easy to use correction tool (via Filters>Distorts>Lens Distortion).

Threading the picavet line is much easier than it may first appear:

Published with the permission of David Hunt ( http://www.kaper.us/basics/BASICS_picavet.html )

The threading sequence is: R1-Rc-A-R2-Rc-C-R1-D-R2-B-R1

Flying a simple rig will give the experience to decide if a more sophisticated set-up is needed and what system may be appropriate for the intended application. A visit to the website of our local KAP specialist, James Gentles, is recommended.

This continuous shooting technique is also useful if you want to take pictures using the camera on a conventional monopod (or long telescopic or sectional pole). Alternatively, you can take a single shot on a shutter-delay setting (as below). The camera was held well above the heads of the crowd.